Phthalates are a large and varied group of substances used for many different purposes. Though they share a common chemical backbone, each phthalate has a unique structure and set of properties. It’s important not to group them all together as one single substance - just as edible and poisonous mushrooms are both fungi, some phthalates are safe and useful, while others are harmful.
Harmful phthalates are banned in cosmetics. A very small number of select phthalates can be used in cosmetics. The main phthalate which may be used in cosmetics and personal care products, such as hairsprays, in the UK and EU, is diethyl phthalate (DEP). All scientific reviews to date around the world by key scientific experts and Governmental agencies have concluded that DEP is safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products. DEP has been reviewed by the European Commission's independent scientific expert committee on three separate occasions, and each time found to be safe in cosmetic products.
Are phthalates dangerous to health?
Some phthalates, notably those not used in cosmetics, have been found to be reprotoxic in animal studies when administered at very high doses. These substances are not allowed to be used in cosmetics in the UK and EU. Their ban does not imply that they were ever used at dangerous levels in cosmetics, but rather reflects a cautious, protective regulatory approach.
DEP, the phthalate still permitted in cosmetics, is not reprotoxic, and there is no scientific dispute about its safety at the levels used in personal care products. The European Commission’s independent scientific body, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP), confirmed in 2007 that DEP is safe for use in cosmetics, even without specific usage restrictions or warning labels. This conclusion is echoed by reviews from expert groups in other countries, such as the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
Can phthalates act as endocrine disruptors?
One persistent claim is that phthalates can act as endocrine disruptors. This concern has mostly focused on phthalates that are not used in cosmetics and have been banned. In contrast, DEP has been extensively studied and does not exhibit endocrine disrupting properties at the concentrations used in cosmetic products.
Claims that DEP could act as an endocrine disruptor in cosmetics are not supported by regulatory safety reviews or toxicological data. The UK and EU cosmetics safety frameworks are among the most stringent in the world, requiring pre-market safety assessments that evaluate every potential risk, including hormonal effects.
Why isn’t DEP always named on labels?
DEP may sometimes be present as part of a fragrance compound, which appears on cosmetic labels as “parfum.” This is standard legal labelling practice under UK cosmetics law. All components of the fragrance blend, including any DEP used, are subject to the same rigorous safety assessment as the rest of the ingredients within the product.
Can there be traces of banned phthalates in products?
Sometimes, very small traces of banned phthalates can appear in cosmetics, not because they’re added deliberately, but due to their presence in packaging or through environmental exposure.
The bottom line
Phthalates are a diverse group of substances, and sweeping claims about their dangers don’t take into account the key scientific and regulatory distinctions between them. DEP, a phthalate sometimes used in cosmetics, has consistently been found to be safe for consumers. There is no evidence that DEP causes cancer, harms reproductive health, or acts as an endocrine disruptor at cosmetic use levels.
Cosmetic products in the UK and EU are rigorously regulated. Every ingredient, including DEP, must pass a strict safety assessment before the product is allowed on the market. That means you can feel confident that the products you’re using are safe.
