We have used fragrances throughout history to improve our quality of life - right back to Egyptian times. A study published in the journal Science in 2014 calculated that humans can discriminate between over one trillion different smells. Today, we do not just buy fragrances in perfumes or 'fine fragrances’ but choose a vast array of cosmetic and personal care products based on their scent.
Creating perfumes
The job of composing perfumes in the fragrance industry is carried out by an expert commonly known as the 'nose'. The nose is a true artist who receives in-depth training for many years to be capable of conveying feelings and ideas with fragrance. They need to be able to distinguish between thousands of different ingredients, alone or in combination, from which they could create a completely new fragrance from scratch.
The fragrances the nose creates will be based on themes called 'accords'. These are signature scents, such as woody or floral, formed from a specific combination of individual components. A bit like blending colours; mixing red and blue gives purple, or mixing blue and yellow gives green.
Some ingredients are extracted directly from nature, such as from citrus peel or from the petals of flowers. Some ingredients are created synthetically - many of these draw inspiration from nature. An example of this is musks, which once were only found in the gland of a particular deer that was being hunted to extinction. In a laboratory, scientists can now identify the molecules that make the essence of a natural smell and replicate these exactly.
Perfumers are constantly seeking inspiration for new fragrances and take exploratory trips around the world to identify new sources. This might include a rare flower, or a freshly picked fruit or an exotic spice. They can capture the fragrance molecules in this remote location and return them to the lab. They are then selected and evaluated by scientific processes like gas chromatography and mass spectrometry.
A wealth of technical expertise is required in fine fragrance development. When choosing a balance of ingredients to ensure the desired fragrance, there are many considerations. For example, a floral scent may require a huge number of petals to be distilled to create the extract with the desired fragrance impact. Ensuring that this is achieved sustainably is also of vital importance. The resulting fragrance blend has to provide a long-lasting scent; it must be stable whilst stored and it must be compliant with all required safety legislation. All of this happens so that we can enjoy the fragrances that we know and love.
The use of fragrances
Fine fragrances are just one way of using the final product. Fragrances are also used in products we use every day such as shampoos, deodorants and soap. Manufacturers have had to develop advanced technology to make sure that the fragrance is not lost within the product. This could include placing it in a capsule, such as starch or sugar, which is triggered to break down and emit the fragrance when it comes into contact with water or even the perspiration process.
Fragrances on your skin
Fragrances smell differently depending on a person's 'body odour profile'. This is based on our genetic make-up and it is also what allows a bloodhound to tell people apart or find them through smell. Dramatic changes in how a fragrance smells on a person are often a result of hormonal changes and ageing. However, what someone eats on a regular basis may affect the way a fragrance smells; if a person is on a high-fat, spicy, diet, for example, it is thought that fragrance will be more intense. Smoking and taking medication can also have an effect. How long a fragrance lasts can be affected by the type of skin - for instance, sometimes dry skin does not hold fragrances as long as oily skin.
More Information
For information on fragrance free products, see our section on Allergy Advice
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