A-Z of Cosmetic Ingredients and Terms
DHA (dihydroxyacetone) is the most commonly used self-tanning ingredient. It works by chemically reacting with the amino acids (the building blocks of proteins) in the dead layer of the skin's surface and causes a colour change, which results in the 'tan' effect.
DHA is part of the sugar chemical family and it can be derived from sugar beets or sugar cane. The reaction of the sugar-like DHA molecule with amino acids in the skin’s surface creates the brown colour result. This is known as the ‘Maillard reaction’, which is the same chemical reaction when bread is toasted; sugars and proteins in the bread bond together and cause toast to look brown. This reaction is also responsible for the biscuit-like smell that some people report after using self-tan!
DHA has undergone two in-depth safety reviews by the European Commission's independent expert scientific committee (the SCCS), which advises the Commission on scientific matters and the safety of cosmetic ingredients. The SCCS looked at data to support the use of DHA in cosmetic formulations, and also specifically its use in spray cabins, and confirmed that DHA is safe in cosmetic products.
The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has also approved DHA as a colour ingredient in self-tanning products.
It is important to remember though that self-tanning products don't normally contain any sunscreens - so do not forget to also use sun protection when going out in the sun.
Sign up here for regular updates about cosmetics
