A-Z of Cosmetic Ingredients and Terms
The phthalates make up a family of substances each with its own, unique, spectrum of properties, united only because they each have a similar chemical group somewhere in the molecular structure.
Some phthalates will possess useful properties: some phthalates possess undesirable properties. In the same way, fungi as a family include both nutritious mushrooms and poisonous toadstools. We therefore cannot consider all phthalates as the same.
A very small number of select phthalates can be used in cosmetics. The main phthalate which is allowed to be used in cosmetics and personal care products, such as hairsprays, in the UK and EU, is diethyl phthalate (DEP). All scientific reviews to date around the world by key scientific experts and Governmental agencies have concluded that DEP is safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products. DEP has been reviewed by the European Commission's independent scientific expert committee on three separate occasions, and each time found to be safe in cosmetic products. Members of the phthalates which have harmful properties are banned for use in cosmetics.
Fragrances are usually composed of many individual substances that are blended together to achieve the desired smell. If a cosmetic product contains a fragrance this is labelled using the word 'parfum' in the ingredients list rather than having to list out all of the individual components. This is legally allowed by the strict UK cosmetic safety laws and is common practice.
It is however not a way of 'hiding' ingredients as is sometimes, wrongly, claimed. All of the ingredients that make up the fragrance are still assessed very carefully as part of the safety assessment. Diethyl phthalate may sometimes, legally and safely, be used as part of the fragrance mix.
No substances banned from use as cosmetic ingredients are allowed to be used in fragrances for cosmetic products.
For more information, see the FAQ on phthalates.
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